If there is a place in this world worth going back to, it always ends up being Marin.

A county in which I called home for three years of my life, I’ve yet to find an area on this globe that offers up so much. It’s the gift that keeps on giving too - no matter how often I do a thing or visit a place, there's always something new to be found, and each experience seemingly better than the last time. There are times where I daydream of spending just an hour here, sampling just one of the million things there is to do. Of course, this is typically the stage where the daydream ends with a sigh, I know that once I’m there, an hour would be impossible anyways.

But as we all know, infinite time is not possible, and thus, we must make sure that when visiting this paradise, we don’t miss too much of the essential best that Marin County has to offer.

There are itineraries that make better use of your time than others, and so you won’t go wrong with choosing anything from this list. Unfortunately, probably even more so than the city of San Francisco itself, once you arrive north of the bridge, you are faced with an overwhelmingly diverse list of experiences to choose from.

And there are just that; far too many things to choose from. Even the beaches differ greatly from ones just miles apart. It’s an outdoor enthusiasts paradise, and whether it be hiking, birdwatching, spending time on the beach, or just looking for the best photo ops, there is something for everyone. Stand atop a mountain and look out over a million people sprawled across cities for miles. Turn in the other direction, and you have your choice of coastline that you may walk for hours and not see another soul. This is Marin in a nutshell; close enough to big city life, close enough to total remote solitude.

The best part of Marin is being in such proximity to amazing things, and it is my hope that you get to experience all of these. Though it's a sizable area, given three days time, you’ll be able to sample all that the county has to offer. We’ll keep these descriptions brief, so as to not spoil everything for you.

So when considering your itinerary to this greatest county in America, here are the eight places that make the cut for the “Best of Marin”.

Honorable Mention: San Rafael

Before we go further, a quick nod to the fabulous town of San Rafael. The County seat of Marin, this city is home to nearly 60,000 residents, and makes for one of the most diverse towns in Northern California.

The downtown area is beautiful, and features a really cool Thursday night Farmers Market.

San Rafael is where I lived for three years of my life, and where I will always consider a home.

But a sizable city is not what makes Marin what it is. And as much as I love San Rafael, it often served as the jumping off point for the more remote adventures that the nearby outdoors had to offer.

Marin Headlands

When you first cross the Golden Gate Bridge into Marin County, veer to west and up the hill towards the Marin Headlands. Pull off and park wherever you like; for nearly a half mile, you’ll have your preference of A+ panoramic vistas overlooking not just the bridge and city, but clear across San Francisco Bay. On an unobstructed day, Mount Diablo frames the Oakland hills below.

It’s a foggy day you want (but not too foggy) and it’s likely you’ll get one (it’s foggy most of the time through the straights) as the movement of the mist comes creeping in through the bridge and spilling out over the city, making for a surreal scene.

Depending on the season, you may be graced with the presence of many colorful migratory birds and butterflies. At any given time, predatory raptors circle about.

But it’s those sweeping views you’re here for, and you can’t go wrong so long as the conditions allow. I find that later in the day is the safest bet; the fog has typically burned off, and you’ll be able to double dip by swinging your viewpoint 180 degrees and watching the sun set over the ocean.

Sausalito

On the opposite side of the lower tip of Marin lies the charming seaside town of Sausalito. Veer off to the right once you exit the bridge, and enter this magical place in only a minute or two.

Sausalito is without question on my short list of places to live if I had unlimited income. While it's unlikely I’ll ever be able to afford it by mere blog traffic, alas, a man can dream!

Hillside homes overlook the bay at the southern part of town, while a large community of house boats sit in the harbor at the north. In between, galleries and souvenir stores (of the authentic type) dot the sidewalks alongside eateries and cafes. Scoma’s is a fabulous setting for a meal.

Once you’ve explored the area at the base of Marin, taking in those close up views of the Golden Gate Bridge and enjoying some time spent in Sausalito, head a few miles to the north and begin your escape from humanity for a while.

Mount Tamalpais

The highest point in Marin County, Mount Tamalpais is featured prominently in many of the area's destinations and to do lists. Its peaks offer some of the best vistas I’ve ever seen. Its forests, some of the most incredible in the world. At its base, one charming coastal town after another. You can spend a significant amount of time on the mountain and only see a fraction of all there is to offer. It’s a place I hold dear to my heart and was blessed with being able to see from my window every day for the few years spent living in San Rafael.

One of the more popular vantage points is East Peak, providing breathtaking views of San Francisco and beyond. My favorite spot however, may be Trojan Point, which has those city views, but is more prominently framed by the redwoods, complete with a sweeping panoramic of the Pacific Ocean to the right.

Fog entering the canyons, from Trojan Point looking west

A bit further up the hill, you'll find the most stunning overlook with Stinson Beach and Bolinas below, where, in the right conditions, you can sit and watch the coastal fog climb into the canyons and through the redwoods below.

I recommend getting out and walking a bit in this general area. Or just stop and take a breath of fresh air. The tranquility of the scene will set your mind in the right place, and has always given me the best reset and boost when I needed it.

Muir Woods

Located in the heart of Mount Tamalpais are the nearly 250 acres of old growth coastal redwoods that make up Muir Woods National Monument. Some over 1000 years old, these colossal redwood trees make for a once in a lifetime setting and visiting experience.

Though one of the most popular attractions in the San Francisco Bay Area, a visit to Muir Woods is one “tourist attraction” that you cannot miss. In fact, arrive before the crowds (or even before it opens) and this resembles nothing like a tourist attraction, and instead becomes a sacred adventure. Otherworldly, or out of body, would be more accurate descriptions.

This advice cannot be understated; there is just a stark difference in your experience depending on how many people you share with it, so do what you can to make it a quiet one. (Which if you follow the rules of the park, you’ll want to be quiet anyways). It’s here where you can really become one with your surroundings.

The impact of Muir Woods on my life is immeasurable. I’ve had the privilege of visiting nearly fifty times, and each journey brings something different. It is one of the main inspirations for this Art and Muse venture, and one of the first places on earth that I truly understood my relationship to planet earth.

Muir Beach

Down the mountain a couple of miles, where the hills meet the sea, lies Muir Beach, a coastal community tucked away in a quiet cove which always finds itself on any iteration of itinerary when I find myself in Marin County.

It is here that I first fell in love with collecting sea glass, where I first saw anemones and starfish, and where anyone would be hard pressed to find a better sunrise, or sunset. Though not a large beach, you can still spend a lot of quality time here, scaling over rocks at low tide, or walking the hillside trails above. For me, it's usually combing the sand for treasures, something that became part of my weekly Tuesday ritual for the three years I lived nearby.

Further up the road is the Muir Beach overlook, where your time is best spent at dawn and dusk to capture those one in a million panoramic views helped by the sun.

It’s also a wonderful place to spend the night. Sitting conveniently just a couple hundred yards from the beach, is the Pelican Inn, a bed and breakfast and pub that feels right out of 18th century north England, and the only commercial enterprise in all of Muir Beach.

Stinson Beach

Keep driving along Highway 1 for another five or six miles and you’ll land at the next great coastal destination, Stinson Beach. Your journey seems to improve with every step taken (this drive being one of the better ones you’ll ever take in your life), and it's hard to dispute that fact once you arrive in town.

As seen from above on Mount Tamalpais, it is both inviting and enticing. It is probably my favorite place in Marin to spend an entire day from sunup to sundown, as everything I need can be found in close proximity. There are a half dozen quaint and cozy bed and breakfasts here, a handful of restaurants, a grocery store, some art galleries.

The Parkside Cafe is the perfect place to grab any nourishment; a pre sunrise 6am coffee, brunch, an ice cream cone, a market to take away a sandwich for a picnic, or even a romantic lamp lit dinner with 5 star fresh catch cuisine.

Of course, it's the long sandy beach itself that features so prominently in this town. Unlike its rocky and pebbly neighbors to the south and north, Stinson Beach is unusually flat and sandy for this part of the coast, which means it's a great place to lay out and soak up the sun.

It’s also an amazing place for a sunset, which generally brings great glass-like reflections on the long receding waves when the tide begins to go out.

If I only had a day to spend in Marin, and it was at Stinson Beach in its entirety, I would be content.

Bolinas

Tucked behind Stinson Beach is the Bolinas Lagoon, and at its point, one of the more unique towns in America.

Any place whose locals notoriously tear down directional signs to keep tourists at bay, is a town I can appreciate. Bolinas is that place, notoriously reclusive, and one of the better examples of the idyllic California life I've come to love. Capitalism doesn't seem to matter much here, just the earth, and people’s relationship with it. It's definitely a surf town, and if you're fortunate enough to find yourself spending a night here, there are some cool beach bungalows that reflect this laid back culture.

Smiley’s Saloon stands at the center of town, having served food and drinks in the same location for a century and a half. It’s not only the oldest bar in the area, it's the oldest bar west of the Mississippi River, still in business after having first opened shop in the gold rush era in 1851.

It has a great beach, too, at the base of the lagoon and far western tip of Stinson Beach, where you’ll find a breathtaking sunrise (notice the trend of great sunrises and sunsets in Marin; you really can’t go wrong anywhere).

I could most certainly live here. It has just enough necessities to make it manageable, and off the grid just enough to ensure a low key lifestyle. Most importantly, it's simply a beautiful place, with a beautiful community.

Point Reyes

Last but certainly not least in the treasure trove of Marin County exploration possibilities, is the grandest of them all; Point Reyes National Seashore.

Separated by a rift zone in the San Andreas fault, the Point Reyes peninsula is a massive parcel of land, 70,000 acres of it. You’ll find miles and miles of uninhabited beaches here, with abundant opportunity to view wildlife such as migratory whales and elephant seals.

It is here that you’ll feel at the end of the earth. I’ve spent days here without seeing other human beings, which is still hard to wrap my head around seeing as it is within an hours drive of one of the largest population clusters on the continent.

In fact, come here if you are looking for that experience; being totally removed from the fast pace of the world around you.

On your way, stop along Tomales Bay at the town of Inverness for a bite at one of the best European restaurants in the bay area; Vladimir’s Czech, or at the authentically hip Saltwater Oyster Depot next door. Oysters are a staple here, and across the bay at Hog Island Oyster Company, you'll find some of the best in the Bay Area (and best views as well).

Once outside of Inverness, things become remote. You’ll find no cell service here, so be prepared. Take a quick detour to the Cypress Tree Tunnel. It’s worth strolling along inside for a few minutes, and really stands out in the otherwise vast farmland landscape.

As you approach the coast, you’ll have options.

For a hike, Chimney Rock is best, you'll get expansive Pacific Ocean views to your right, and in the winter, hundreds of seals lay on the beaches below.

For beaches, well, they're everywhere. One of my favorite is Limantour, with some great rock formations about a mile into your hike to the south.

Though it's a bit of ways away from other destinations, I find that Point Reyes fits well within any itinerary. You’ll want to dedicate some time here, so make it a part of a multi day itinerary.

Point Reyes Shipwreck, Inverness, Tomales Bay

So there you have it- my top recommendations to make sure you are equipped for that perfect Marin County journey. Maybe I’ll see you there in 2021, but either way, let us know how you enjoyed it!

We have a saying around here that usually begins with, “If i only had twenty four hours…”

I will amend my words to make sure this special part of earth receives its due diligence.

If I only had three days in Marin...

Day 1

I’d head to the headlands from the airport and take in the views
Spend some time in Sausalito
End the day at Muir Beach, staying at the Pelican Inn after catching sunset

Day 2

Wake up early to catch sunrise at Muir Beach overlook
Head to Muir Woods just prior to opening, making sure I’m first
Spend the bulk of the remainder of the morning exploring Mt. Tamalpais
Lunch at Parkside Cafe
Stinson Beach for the afternoon
Bolinas in the evening for dinner and drinks

Day 3

Bolinas Lagoon and beach for sunrise
Head out to Point Reyes towards Limantour Beach
Weep that the adventure has come to an end

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Travelogue: Marin County, California

January 19, 2022Matt Bueby