Travelogue: Budapest
Matt Bueby
I haven’t yet made it to every corner of Europe. I do wonder however, if that day comes, if I’ll have ever found a place quite like Budapest.
This city seemingly has it all; history, sights, food, and for us budget travellers, affordability. It’s a place I would be hard pressed to pass up even at the expense of having the chance of exploring somewhere new.
Budapest, Hungary has been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember. Originally slated to be a part of my itinerary during my first trip to Europe in 2005, before plans changed, I long wondered if I’d ever make it there. I finally did, last December, and that visit is, to date, the pinnacle of my travel experiences.
More than just floating around in the back of my mind as an obvious future travel destination, Budapest seemed to be the place that everyone I came across was fully in love with.
“We had such a great trip abroad,” one friend said, “and though we loved seeing Paris and Barcelona, we wish we could have spent more time in Budapest instead.”
I’ve been to Paris and Barcelona and they're both awesome so they had to be on to something.
“Italy was amazing, but man, Budapest,” another friend told me.
Ugh. It started to make me feel maniacally obsessed with having to experience it.
The final convincing nail was when a good friend of ours sent us an itinerary of their trip there from the year before, and with every link I clicked, with every photo of every meal and place to explore, I was more and more convinced that this was going to happen.
So we booked the trip and made Budapest a cornerstone of our holiday travels.
Which by the way, what an extraordinary time of the year to visit. The Christmas markets, the decoration, the sights and smells. It is absolutely magical. It is the perfect place to lift your spirit and forge joyous memories.
So much so in fact, that after seven weeks of meticulously crafted and curated plans to propose marriage to Kayla in Paris on New Years Eve, I decided on a whim during my first day in Budapest, that this had to be the place instead. It was that good. Good enough to jettison all previous plans (and if you know me, that is saying quite a lot) and romantic enough to put even the “City of Love” on the back burner.
Anyways, I’m glad Kayla said yes. Otherwise, this post may read a little differently.
Continuing in our thematic insight into maximizing your experience in any given place; you will benefit greatly from having a very detailed plan for your travels in Budapest if you are only afforded a limited amount of time there. There is simply so much that can be seen that you wouldn’t want to waste any time. That's not to say you shouldn’t allow yourself ample time to explore, but let's at least point you towards where you should spend those wandering moments.
Though we had the luxury of two full days, even that is considered short by most anyone's standards (although for us, anything more than a twenty four hour stay is a great benefit).
So how should one spend their time in this great city?
A view of Pariament, and the Danube, from Fisherman’s Bastion
Soak up the sights in Buda
Remember my five step travel mantra I always try to adhere to, which includes finding a view? You would be very hard pressed to find a place that has better.
Formerly the separate towns of Buda and Pest (on the west and east sides of the River Danube respectively), these two areas, while having much in common, are also stark in their contrasts. As such, Buda and Pest make for a great way to divvy up the day for planning purposes. The neighborhoods within the city are broken up into “districts” which are labelled numerically to help simplify things further.
Like many places, you can’t get a feel for the “whole Budapest'' after just a short amount of time. And while sacrifices may have to be met in whatever time frame you have, a visit to both the Buda and Pest sides of the river, is at a bare minimum, a necessity.
It’s the Buda side of things that has those million dollar vistas. And they are everywhere. Take one look from Pest, (where your trip would most likely begin if you are arriving by air or train) and you'll be salivating to get up there and see things from that perspective, looking back down on where you stand. Getting there is half the journey, and the fun part.
The Danube is spanned by many bridges, none of them more famous than the Széchenyi Chain Bridge. Head towards here first thing and make your way to the other side. I recommend traveling by scooter, for which there are a dozen companies these days, found in most every major city in the world. Budapest is no exception, and makes for the perfect place to zip around. The scooter will be to your benefit once you reach Buda, as many hills await.
Though I’m certain Budapest is amazing in the summer, the charm of the holiday season made things come even more alive. From magnificent churches to pop up food stands, everything is tied together by the people experiencing in the joy. Choirs on each church step, nativity scenes and wreaths abound. Cups full of everything from goulash to mulled wine, to warm both body and soul. These things greeted us like an old friend from the moment we crossed the river, bringing a smile to our faces that didn’t leave for days.
After you assess how amazing you feel, head on up to Buda Castle and take in the first of many great sights looking east over the river. Currently hosting the Hungarian National Gallery, Buda Castle finds its history as the Royal Palace for Hungarian kings and queens dating back many centuries. After some exploration here, head north for more discovery, and even better vantage points.
Day or night, the views from Buda are spectacular
You feel like time has turned backwards while in Buda, and this sensation starts to build on you. You can get lost for hours looking into all sorts of winding nooks and crannies, alleys and roadways each leading you to quieter and quieter cobblestone streets that leave you believing you’re in a fairytale.
Once you reach the Halászbástya (Fisherman's Bastion) the fairytale assumption becomes conclusive.
It’s here that I proposed to Kayla, finding a quiet corner away from the crowds during an afternoon of gazing over the marvelous expanse of the river. As I mentioned before - Budapest was the place it had to be, and the Bastion proved to be the worthy venue. We had gone here the previous night, finding it breathtaking. Wanting to see how things looked in the daytime, we found ourselves back here again.
Grab a drink, or lunch, atop the Halászbástya restaurant and look back down on the crowds. This terrace makes for one of the best settings in Europe in my opinion.
It is from here that you’ll find some of the best views of Parliament, which sits on the eastern side of the Danube so impressive and stout that you can't take your eyes off of it. You'll be so drawn in, that you’ll want to get a closer look, which is the perfect segue into doing just that.
Head on down the hills and to the riverbank and take some time to stroll along at eye level. What seemed mighty from afar, is even more jarring up close. Panning to the south towards Chain Bridge creates the perfect panorama, which taken in near sunset, creates impeccable lighting, color and shadowing.
Széchenyi Chain Bridge just before sunset
Wind down for some fun in Pest
If Buda is for the sights, or the elegance of centuries old romantic fairytales, Pest is the hip modern party.
That’s not to say there isn’t history to be found here. Quite the contrary in fact. Parliament is here, and close by, Saint Stephen's Basilica, Budapest’s tallest church. It is here that we found the most incredible Christmas market that stretched for blocks as far as the eye could see.
Nearby Liberty Square honors Budapest’s past with various memorials to the lives lost here during the Nazi occupation, and to the Soviet Union who liberated it.
For a relaxing experience, head to one of Budapest's many thermal baths. Szechenyi is not only the city’s largest, but Europe’s largest spa in fact.
If it’s fine dining you’re after, you’ll find it here, too. More than one Michelin Star restaurant dots the streets of Pest, as well as a myriad of other fantastic food destinations. Börze is a great option for my favorite meal of the day; breakfast. Even something as simple as scrambled eggs, when made hungarian style (with Paprika of course) are to die for.
“It is this type of place that firmly dispels the misconceptions that you must spend lots of money to experience the best of Europe. ”
Yes come to Pest for all of these things, but don’t forget to experience the best that this town has to offer; pure fun. Head to District VII, spend some time along Kazinczy utca and let loose.
If you’re a fan of street food, Karavan is the perfect landing spot. You’ll soon realize that you need not make reservations at a fancy restaurant to experience the best of Budapest cuisine. An outdoor food court of sorts, you’ll find everything here from international cuisine to authentic Hungarian specialties. For a taste of the local staples, choose between Lángos (fried bread with assorted toppings, traditionally sour cream and cheese), goulash, or chicken paprikash. Or, like us, eat all of it. And then do it over again. When you’ve had your fill, head next door for one of the most bizarrely satisfying experiences you’ll find in Budapest.
One of the main attractions in this part of town, and Budapest in general, are the ruin bars. Not sure what they are? They have an interesting backstory to say the least.
Formerly the Jewish Ghetto prior to the second World War, the District VII area of Budapest sat dilapidated through the turn of this century. In the early 2000’s, a novel business concept seemed to transform the once overlooked area into the city’s liveliest. Bars soon began to pop up inside these formerly abandoned buildings. Szimpla Kert was one of the first, and is Budapests most famous today. It is without question one of the most wild places you’ll ever see.
More than just a bar nowadays, Szimpla is at times a farmers market, art gallery, live music venue, and movie house. It’s a transformational place that has become the hip epicenter of town. It should be noted that this is no hole in the wall place.
It’s actually an abandoned factory of sorts, and the size of Szimpla makes it a great place to spend the night exploring its many floors and rooms. You may find over a thousand people here, and if you’re a fan of people watching in general, well, this is most certainly going to be your place.
With graffiti adorning the walls behind you, grab a drink and relax in an old bathtub and soak up the sights!
Your money goes far here - things are relatively affordable most places, if not downright cheap. Whether its street food, drinks, or even a place to stay, let us not forget to mention one of the main draws of Budapest to begin with; its affordability.
Miro Rooms Budapest
There is a reason so many travellers ascend on this city, both families and backpackers alike. For us, we paid no more than $25 a night USD for a chic apartment studio near Liberty Square, which was within walking distance of nearly everything we planned to see.
You'd likely have to add a zero to the total to find a comparable place like this in a major city in the states, or in other European destinations like Paris or London etc.
It is this type of place that firmly dispels the misconceptions that you must spend lots of money to experience the best of Europe. Each new place we visit, we are moving further and further into the camp of the often overlooked destinations being the best. Yes, Budapest is wildly popular, and by no means an under the radar place, but it does straddle that line. I’m not sure it finds itself in the conversation of a Paris or London or Barcelona, and that’s not a bad thing at all. In a sense, it’s probably a better experience, at a significantly reduced price anyways.
Budapest will forever hold a special place in my heart. I’ve had two of the best nights of my life here, which even without an engagement, would remain true. I’ve yet to find a place that scores so highly when measuring the essential categories of food, culture, sights, fun, affordability etc. One could give perfect grades for each and I’d probably decline to argue.
We will for certain be returning as soon as we’re able. For now, we look back fondly on this unforgettable place. As holds true with many of these special places we visit, what we wouldn’t do for just twenty four hours here…
If we did…
We’d head straight to Buda, over the Chain Bridge
Spend some time at Fisherman's Bastion, reminiscing on our special day
Grab lunch and coffee atop the bastion
Take in the sights at Buda Castle
Walk the river bank across from Parliament near sunset
Explore Pest at dusk, looking for any outdoor markets, events or happenings
Eat all the food at Karavan
Spend late night at Szimpla
Stay at Miro
Breakfast at Börze
Find a nice Spa for a dip, before departing, and planning our return